Bromeliads can be grown very well in many different materials. River gravel, perlite, coarse granite, treefern fiber, fir bark, coconut fiber, cork bark, German peat, sand, coarse leafmold or mixtures. In fact, mixtures are preferable.

The following requirements are all necessary for success, so your mixture should have:

• Enough substance to hold the plant erect
• Good aeration
• Good drainage
• Some moisture holding capacity (never a great amount and never soggy)
• Ability to hold some fertility (does not leach rapidly)

A sample mixture could be as follows:

• 2 parts treefern fiber
• 1 part coarse granite or perlite
• 1 part Peat Moss
• Pot size can be quite small, but large enough to hold the plant upright!

A curved piece of broken pot inverted over the drainage hole (in clay pots) and covered to a depth of one third of the pot with broken crock or gravel, is good insurance that the drainage will never become clogged.

The leaf bases should not be set any deeper than the surface of the medium.

If the plant has little or no roots and will not stand up satisfactorily in the pot, it should be temporarily staked or tied.

NEVER USE GALVANIZED OR COPPER WIRE!

Bamboo or wooden splints are fine and they may be removed as soon as the plant is well rooted.

Never add strong fertilizer to the potting mixture. It will only rot the potting medium; it can also cause the roots and the base of the plant to rot.

The potting of Bromeliads which are epiphytic differs somewhat from that of ordinary plants as they have developed specialized root systems suited to their aerial habitats… this must be taken into consideration when selecting a potting media suitable for them.

As Bromeliad roots in nature function primarily as “hold-fasts” to their host tree, they have been thought for years not to need any nutrition at their roots… however they do respond to feeding to a certain extent.

Because their roots are exposed to the air in their natural state, they must have perfect aeration to do their best in cultivation. Certain species have a tendency to produce few roots, and usually in these the root systems are produced only during the early period of the plant’s life and hardly any after the plant reaches its mature size.

It is understandable, therefore, that the potting material used for this type should be of a durable nature. For the dry-growing bromeliads such as many Tillandsias, it is necessary to keep the bases of the leaves high. The potting media must be exceptionally well drained. This need for aeration makes this type most suitable for mounting on plaques where their roots are exposed.

For the Vrieseas, Guzmanias and moist growing Tillandsias, osmunda ( fern root fiber) seems to be the most satisfactory (most commercial Bromeliads are grown in a very well draining potting soil), as this holds a uniform moisture, gives adequate aeration, provides some food value and in addition, because of its firmness, is very convenient to hold the base of a new rootless offset steady until it forms its own root system.

However, most Bromeliads can be grown very well in many different materials. River gravel, perlite, coarse granite, treefern fiber, fir bark, coconut fiber, cork bark, peat, sand, coarse leafmold or mixtures. In fact, mixtures are preferable.

Bromeliads are some of the longest lasting house plants to provide color… months of color. But it’s possible to "squeeze" more flower time from them.

Little Background on How Bromeliads are Produced Commercially

Most bromeliads grow for months… but usually years from tissue culture or seeds, before going to market. Most of the plants found in the garden center are not full grown but about 3/4 size.

If the plants could reach full size, "monsters" of 28-36 sizes across could be decorating our homes, which would take up more space than the current coffee table!

To start the blooming process growers "treat" or "gas" their plants, forcing them to flower.

Depending on the time of year, light and other circumstances the bromeliad will begin to "bloom" in about 6-12 weeks.

Growers ship plants in different stages; some stages depend on the variety of plant grown.

• Breaking water
• Bud in cup
• Flower above cup
• Medium Color
• Full color

The Secret… to having Bromeliads last longer is just like cut flowers.

Here’s what to look for when buying Bromeliads or House Plants in general:

• Newly arrived plants
• Flower spikes just coming out of the cup
• Medium blush NOT full color
• Clean undamaged foliage
• Plants not dried out (soil or cup)

The two biggest shipping days in Florida nurseries are Monday and Thursday. Ask your local garden center when they receive new shipments from Florida. Plan your visit and purchase as new plants arrive.

By following a few simple "rules" you’ll enjoy more color from your bromeliad, possibly by an additional 2 to 4 weeks!

It may appear to be a trite statement to say that Bromeliads are living organisms that react to the conditions of their environment as do other living plants and animals.

They grow more slowly, so their reactions are considerably slower than most other plants. Strange as it may seem to most, there are those people, and a good number of them, who prefer to close their eyes when it comes to giving living plants the proper conditions that are necessary to maintain them in good health.

Ask yourself this question, silly as it may sound.

Would placing your child on a mantel to stay until he gathered dust be a satisfactory method of raising him, or do you get a feeling of satisfaction and even of elation out of seeing your daily efforts help round out his life and character so that he matures to be the kind of an individual you had planned him to be?

The same kind of thinking applies to growing plants with one very decided difference. That is that the plant requires only a small fraction of the time and effort that a child needs. But daily observation and a little know how really pays off.

One reason for starting addressing this in a strong manner is that Bromeliads seem to stand up well with no attention and do not wilt to show that they need care right now, thereby tempting you into a complacent attitude with means Neglect.

After a Bromeliad flowers the plant will never flower again. However, the bromeliad puts out what many refer to as pups or offshoots. Some stay close to the plant and others like Neoregelia McWilliamsii send out more of a runner.

To maintain the right balance Bromeliads and other house plants need the right amount of "food" just like people.

Notice from the picture the plant on the left shows "tall gangly growth."

This is caused from excessive fertilizer which produces the long curved leaves on the Aechmea fasciata.

The Aechmea plant on the right received the correct  amount of fertilizer shown by its more attractive, healthy appearance and proper form.

Bromeliads in general are one of the easiest house plants to care for. However, most of the disease problems come from the result of "less than ideal" growing conditions.

Low temperatures (in the 40′s) and over watering as is the case of most house plants can cause the crown to root. The leaves may be tough but mechanical injury can also lead to disease problems or just an overall "unhealthy" look.

Watering is probably one of the top questions I receive on house plant care… and bromeliads are no different. Hopefully this information will provide some help in watering your bromeliads.

In their natural surroundings, bromeliads grow under many different conditions. My general rule on watering most houseplants is as follows. Water well, allow excess water to drain, allow to dry out before watering again.

Filling up the Bromeliad!

Most bromeliads you find in the stores today come with their own water tank, or”tank type" bromeliads. The reason for this name is because of the “cup” or “vase” formed as the rosette of leaves come together.

The plant holds water in this “tank.” Plants with cups should be filled, and not allowed to remain empty… however; inside they can run a little drier.

Tank Maintenance

Water should never “sit” for very long or it becomes stagnate and smelly! I like to flush the bromeliad tank out periodically with plenty of fresh water.

There are a couple reasons for this:

• The stagnate water I just mentioned
• Salt build up in the cup or vase as water evaporates

One problem with bromeliads outside is when the temps fall into the 30’s and water sits in cups… you may notice some damage from possible freezing water.

Some people (with plants indoors) mist their plant a couple time’s e a week in addition to watering because of the low humidity inside… however I don’t.

Water Quality

The quality of the water is important in my opinion with any house plant care. Tap water usually is fine for watering the pots and soil area. But for better results I prefer using rain, distilled or reverse-osmosis water for the tanks or cups. If you use city water, flush the plant and tank periodically to reduce chances of salt damage.

I know Bromeliads are considered tough and carefree as an indoor house plant, plus they provide long-term indoor color for months at a time. Most of the problems encountered with bromeliads grown inside are usually associated over watering causing rot. By following these watering guidelines:

Water well, allow excess water to drain, allow to dry out before watering again.

You should be well on your way to having a healthy bromeliad to enjoy for months and months.

Can you remember back when you were in elementary school or junior high and did some kind of science experiment? I can!

At times I wonder what planet I came from when I come up with a statement like… "Growers should offer some bromeliad plants without flowers!" Often I listen to growers talk about "how" they can increase awareness of the plants they work so hard to produce. Their solution usually comes down to coming up with a new variety or planting in a different pot or finding new customer… something "extreme" like that.

Bromeliads are known for delivering great color both as house plants or in the landscape. In case you are not aware, probably about 99.9% of all the bromeliad  varieties  sold in the chains like "Home Depot", "Lowe’s"  and "Walmart"  find themselves "forced" into flower.  Once the plants reach a size the plants then "get gased" which forces them into flower about 6-12 weeks later depending on the time of year, light, heat and other factors.

So where am I going with all this?

A great way to "grow" some consumers is by bringing together the growers and big box retailers. How you say? I’d love to see one of those retailers … or all of them… use bromeliads as a way to teach some science and get kids interested in house plants.  They can do this "creating" a bromeliad science experiment.

You may want to try this for yourself, if you have a nice size but old "unflowered" bromeliad around.

You can be the "grower" and force the plant to flower! It’s not that hard to do!

Simply take a mature bromeliad (Aechmeas and Guzmanias are great for this) put the whole plant, pot and all, into a large plastic bag. Now toss in a ripe apple  and set the "bagged" plant in a low-light place and out of any direct light. Leave the plant in the bag for few days, and then pull out the apple and plant. This should force the plant to "flower". Put the plant back into it’s usual growing area.

Remember to give it some time… 6-12 weeks minimum to see some bloom happenings.

Although this science experiment is simple to do, the problem lies in students, in fact most people do not have any option to pick up an unflowered bromeliad to do the experiment.

My hope is that somewhere along the line one of these retailers will take the idea and run with it.

Throughout the day most of use words and terms which we assume people will know what we mean. If example, mention the word "cargo" and we think of containers on a ship.

Bromeliads have their own sort of a "mystery word." That word is – flower! Mention Bromeliad flower and most people immediately think the colorful spike is actually the flower… but it is not.

That big showy "flower" is a what is known as the inflorescence. What is an infloresence according to wikipedia – An inflorescence is a group or cluster of flowers on a branch of a plant. In botany, the term refers to the way individual flowers are arranged on the plant, which arise on the same stem.

Bromeliad flowers in reality are small and at times very plain, but when combined in a group they produce colorful masterpieces of natural art which can last for months.